Plans... Oh, how they change

So having a bit of time to peruse the collection, I stopped to look at things and how they are progressing.

Some animals are not eating as well as I would like.

Some 2011s are already overtaking some of the 2010s.

And with that, the heart sinks and the plans change.

It's kind of a mixed blessing, I suppose.

Some plans for some animals are no longer on cue, which gives other smaller animals who may do better things in the future more time to catch up.

Case in point: I have a Super Pastel het Hypo female that is from 2010 not even breaking 500 grams. Why, do you ask? Well, for the longest time, she would not eat for me. She was a mouser, and she and I were in a battle of wills to get one another to acquiesce. I would not back down, and neither would she for the longest time. But she finally did, and is now chowing down happily on rats.

The problem with this scenario?

I lost several months of good growth with her if I had just given in.

Should I have?

I could have... I just don't like feeding mice unless I absolutely have to.


Is it a personality glitch that I need to have everything my way?

Nah, I don't think so. I just need things to be easier in the long run, and I am willing to wait a bit.

Sometimes though, I kick myself for fighting the good fight. Now I have to wait with these gals and pump them up more now than ever before to catch them up to a good weight for the next season. Or wait some more.

Either way, that is why Ball Pythons have the reputation they have. They can be tricky, they can be a pain, but in the end, they are totally worth it.

I just have to remind myself of that when I see tiny two year old critters in my rack.

...sigh...


Have a great day, my friends.

Allergies... still here

Happy Veterans Day!

While dealing with all of the snakes and pairings, the feedings still have to happen, and I am still sniffing like crazy on account of the rats.

I am allergic, and it's not easy to deal with... Especially right now with the dry air and the particulate that comes with rodents and their bedding.

Aaaa-choo!

My eyes burn, my nose runs, and I keep sneezing or coughing. It's not fun sometimes, and today is one of those days.

I do use tongs/hemostats, but I have to say sometimes it doesn't help. Especially when you have to dig thru bedding to find the rodents anyway. Shaving dust is not something that is particularly great to breathe in.

Other things that can and will set me off (and maybe you too?) is the bedding dust for the snakes as well. Sani-chips do have some slight dust, and it does get airborne if you pour it or move it around.

So with sniffles and watery eyes, I feed and pull rats all night long. It takes me around three hours to complete the feeding process, and yes, I do feed live. It's not hard, it's just time consuming. Thursday nights are feeding nights, and they take a while.

But anything to keep the collection happy, healthy and fat!

With tongs and a wary hand, I open tubs, place rats, feed snakes, remove uneaten rats, monitor snakes for issues, and spot clean when needed. 

What I do for the things I love...

Have a great day, my friends!

Problem Feeders and what to do

Well, this is the season of problem feeders... Babies that have hatched out and have yet to thrive.

Here's a good calendar of events to follow.

After a hatchling has shed, offer a pre-killed or live rat fuzzy within the first week of shed. If the critter has not shed yet after 2-3 weeks of hatching, feed anyway.

If the snake has not eaten on its own, offer every 4-5 days until it does, with the caveat that if it does not eat on its own within 6 weeks, consider assist feeding.

This is really dependant upon the snake themselves...

If the snake look emaciated and does not respond to touch well or flicker its tongue, it is time to intervene.

Assist feeding is a simple-ish process, and I will actually go thru how to do it with photos on Friday.

Do not force feed unless absolutely necessary and do not stress out your animal overly, or you defeat the purpose of getting the animal comfortable and get them to eat.

Make sure they have plenty of water, and are in a tub that is relatively small (if there is no hide and they are not eating, that may be something to try, or crumpled up paper).

Patience is a virtue with hatchlings, but there is a fine line of when to get involved. Again, it depends on the animal, and if the skin gets loose, the animal is not too responsive, that is the time to get aggressive.

If the animal just is picky, I would suggest leaving them alone for a feeding cycle (or a few days) and try again. Mouse hoppers are a good choice for those that are just picky...

Start out with rat fuzzies, move to mouse hoppers if needed. THEN try assist feeding...

I hope that helps those of you out there that have been having issues.

Have a great day, my friends!

Hatchling Issues

Well, as in every season of breeding, one gets hatchlings (hopefully). When you are lucky enough to have viable hatchlings, the next step is to get them going.

And sometimes, it just doesn't work.

Here are some problems that one finds as a breeder.

1) Non-Feeders:

Some critters have extra yolk to absorb compared to others, and therefore don't need to eat for a few weeks after being hatched out. This is the best scenario, as they just are fatties getting a little less fat before switching from the mother's "milk", so to speak. Other situations become apparent when babies are skinny, you can see their spines, and they just have no interest in any food item.

How do you resolve this issue? Assist feeding. Pre-kill a small prey item (mouse hoppers tend to be a good choice) and put it into the mouth. Usually this is enough of a stimulant to allow for a response, and the snake swallows. Sometimes it is not enough even then, and the animal doesn't respond to anything. In this case, water and patience is the only way to go. Force-feeding should be a last resort, and is not fun for anyone.

2) Problems:

I just had an animal pass away that did not appear to have a well functioning digestive tract. Her stomach and vent area were bloated, and the material did not pass quickly if at all. She ate fine, but eventually succumbed to the lack of regular body flow and passed.  Other animals hatch out with kinks, physical problems, and even missing parts. These are par to the course when dealing with live animals, and it should be something that you as a breeder are aware of. It's again, not fun... but it happens. And you have to come to terms with it.

3) Non-Shedders:

This is a small problem for some, and honestly, it is not that big of a deal depending on the situation. Shiny babies are cute and all, but if they stay shiny, there may be a physiological problem with them that you can't see other than the lack of shedding. The best bet is to treat them like normal, and when they grow by feeding and age, they will eventually shed out, given there are no other hidden issues.

So what do you look for in problem babies?

Well, as I just addressed..

-Non-shedders
-Non-feeders
-Bloating, digestive issues, lack of waste passing
-Color change... (If your baby goes from a white belly to a yellow, this is not a good sign)
-Poor muscle tone/movement (If your baby can't move well, that is also a bad sign)

If any of these are the case, you need to put that critter on watch. If you are concerned, take it to a qualified reptile vet. All of these things are things to do to keep your babies healthy and thriving. Do all you can do make it so.

But realize in the end, there are sometimes fights you just can't win.

Have a great day, my friends.

What I've noticed over the years

Well, I am never going to be comfortable saying that I know EVERYTHING about Ball Pythons, nor am I going to tell someone that they are wrong about their own personal experiences.

But here are mine, and I'd like to share them with you!

In general, babies eat well. Some tend to be more picky than others, but usually when you get them to start, they are good to go for a while. Every 5 days? No problem...

Mouse hoppers are great starter food sources for pain in the ass feeders. Rat pups are my main go-to, but wiggling around and twitching doesn't quite do it for some feeders, and mice are the way to go after a good month of trying.

Water... Water is a very very very important part of husbandry, as all living creatures need it. Make sure to provide plenty of water, or else your snakes may not eat. Never a good sign...

When it comes to around a year, there are some animals that eat straight thru any season, any time, anywhere... Most Ball Pythons do not, however, and will stop eating around 600-800 grams for a while. Mostly this happens during the breeding season, but not exclusively. This tends to happen, as I said, within their first to second year.

And then, when it warms up, they get to eating again. This can be a length of time up to eight months, depending on the animal. Sometimes they change preferences completely.

With females that have bred and produced eggs, this can happen, albeit unfortunately.

There is a female that I have had for a long time, and she was always a rat eater. After she produced eggs, she stopped eating... She stopped eating completely. It took her a year and a half to begin eating again. Why is that??? And how did she manage that long?

She decided she only ate mice. I only fed her rats. She turned her nose up. She may have taken a few within that year and a half, but never consistently as she normally did. But I finally gave in and gave her mice after moving her into a smaller tub, different substrate, different locations, and even smaller feed items (I even tried rat pups!) Of course she had water, and a hide and a nice tub. But she wasn't really happy... She wanted a Mickey.

Oh well.

So that is how long I've had a problem feeder. I just recently, within the last few months, have been feeding her mice. Now she and I have an understanding, and we get along just fine!

With those situations, I wouldn't suggest jumping shark and giving into mice if you don't have a steady supply. I give them a month to get it in gear with the food that I offer, and then I try new things. I have gotten very patient with bad feeders, and I have to say, sometimes, time and a new thing is all they need.

But back to those pesky sub-adults... That is a different story. For the most part, no matter what you do, they will still refuse. It is par to the course of growing up for some animals. Again, I don't say ALL, because that would be a fallacy.

MOST.

And it still sucks.

But we see the challenge, we approach it with an open mind, and celebrate when they start eating again!

So there you go. Of course, this is not all that I've noticed over the years, but I have to say, it is a big one! We'll be talking more about other things that tend to trend over here at Heather's Herps, but of course, as always, if you have a question, comment it and I will answer!

Have a fantastic day, my friends! Happy Monday!

Prepping for the next season

Man, oh man...

I am trying to get things in order for the beginnings of next season, and this season isn't even over yet!

I am feeling a bit spread thin, especially since my lifeline (aka my internet) is still out at the house.

I CANNOT GET MY NEW AVAILABLE PAGE UP WHEN I CAN'T USE MY INTERNET.

RAAAAAAAAAAAAAAWWWWWWWWWWWWWWRRRRRRRRRRRRR.

Alright. That's enough bitching for today.

I am currently trying to feed some of the tougher feeders to get them at least in line for the next season. Problem feeders are just that... problems.

And my absolute last resort is to change feeder types.

I hate that I have to even consider it, but there are some animals in the collection that are picky, and one in particular, a Het Pied female that only ate mice for a while, ate rats, laid eggs, and now will not touch rats.... is driving me bonkers.

Bonkers because I don't like giving in. I'd rather her eat rats, but she'd rather eat mice, more than likely. I have yet to offer it to her, but I am almost 100% sure she will eat them.

Next week, if she doesn't eat a rat, she will get a mouse, then a rat doused in mouse.

How does one mouse douse?

As gross as it sounds, dirty mouse bedding. Put them in a bag with dirty mouse bedding, "shake and bake" (another movie reference, but in this case, shake it up), and place in the tub. The longer the rat is in the bedding, the more likely it will work.

But overall, getting animals to eat for the season ahead is very important, and necessary. Fat and happy makes for better breeding.

So I am working on it. Some animals are not cooperating, as I had said before, but that's alright. We have another few weeks to get them going.

Until then, my friends... Have a great day!

Frustrations

Well, as we well know, it is breeding season.

And with that in mind, there is a huge frustration, albeit rather financially helpful.

Feeding.

When breeding season comes along, it is very difficult to get everyone feeding. Males go off feed cause of the sex, females go off feed cause of the eggs. Babies and sub adults go off feed cause, hey, why not...

And yes, this does help me in terms of buying less feeders, but the problem is that even when feeder amounts are on the low side, it is some times very difficult to figure out what to do with the left overs that inevitably occur.

And I greatly dislike housing left overs.

Not because I dislike rats, mind you. I just don't have a very good place to hold them. My facility does not allow for many rat cages or rat racks at all, so I have to make due with an ultra hugemungous tank for all of the left overs.

And cleaning that sucker is a pain, let me tell you...

So I prefer to not have any leftover rodents.

And a day that has no leftovers is a good day indeed.

But, in months of breeding, leftover rodents is to be expected.

So yes, if your male or female is not eating right now, yes it is normal, no, you should not be concerned, and yes, it is fine for you to try again in another few days.

Breeding season is great for creating more mouths to feed, but remember that the mouths that created those other mouths will get hungry too.

And then?

Feeder bill explodes.

Yeah, maybe I should just appreciate the lull in needing food.

Yeah.

Have a fantastic day, my friends.

Allergies

Well, as it stands as a Reptile Breeder, one usually does not have allergies to the animals themselves.

Scales are easy.

It is the food that is the issue.

I am allergic to rodents. All rodents.

Actually, I'm allergic to many other things as well, but rodents will suffice for this blog.

How then, do you ask, do I feed my snakes?

Carefully.

I do tend to get itchy and get the sniffles when I am touching the rats. More so even when I touch them then touch my face.

I can handle them in short bursts, but it does take a toll over a while of feeding. It takes me a few hours to feed, and I do touch them with my bare hands.

I probably shouldn't.

What tends to happen is that I use my hands or tongs to put them in, and they scratch me.

When they scratch me, I puff up in the area where the scratch is. And then, I sniffle. And sneeze.

Some people have a much more severe reaction to the rodents than I do, so here are a few tips on how to feed your snakes with live rodents that you are allergic to.

1) Use protection: Gloves, tongs, anything that will keep you from needing to get into contact. Even if you need to, use a mask for breathing.

2) Use help. Don't do it alone if you don't have to.

3) Frozen thawed food items do not bite, scratch or otherwise move around to let forth hair or dander to make you react. They still may make you react, but it will not be as bad.

4) Take drugs if you need to. Prepare yourself for the encounter.

5) Take it easy. When you get a reaction, just step back, take whatever time you need before anything, and then jump back in when you are ready.

You more than likely already know all of this, but hey, I just want to remind. I had this issue last night, so I wanted to touch on it now.

My arm is still itchy.

Have a fantastic, non-itchy day, my friends.

Development issues and frustrations

Someone out there in internet land asked to see Chipo, and updated photo. Here she is! She looks exactly like she did 6 months ago.

Small.

WHY???

It's not like I don't offer her food, water, a place to sleep, and a comfortable temperature....

She is one of my developmentally frustrating snakes. She has not eaten in a few months, which is still fine for her, but not something that is conducive to growth.

I've tried several different food types, food sizes, etc. I've moved her around the rack, moved her into a different tub, but to no avail. So... we now just wait.

And she is not the only one. Here are my girls...

My Pied from 08'. She is smaller than some of my 09's!!!

She is only 488 grams as of today, and it is extremely frustrating, as she is my oldest female Pied, and one I was looking forward to using next year, but if she doesn't pick up, she will be in the hold off rack.

And my 08' Spider female...

This girl has been driving me BONKERS, and this is a reason to keep your animals in and on ONE food source for the entirety of their lives.

Apparently, this female, as well as the Mojave below her, are mouse eaters.

Mouse eaters are frustrating to me very much, as I do not feed mice unless I know for a fact that the snakes ONLY eat  mice. I have a few in the collection, but I try to avoid mouse only eaters as much as I can.

So... I have made the effort to feed these girls rats, but to no avail. These 08' girls are less than 400 grams each cause of my lack of mouse feeding.

Now, I am giving mice to these gals, reluctantly. But, if it gets them bigger and eating, I can't complain that much, right?

Now I know that you guys are wondering, why are you concerned only about girls eating? Well, gals need the size much more than any male does, so when males are not eating much, it is less of a concern.

So, we will trudge on, enjoying the fruits of my labors in growth of other females, but being constantly reminded by these gals that not all females eat well, and that there are times when plans do not go as well as you had hoped.

Have a great week, my friends.. It's MONDAY!